P3 – Pants Pattern Perfection

P3 pants – self drafted pattern

Way back in 2017, I was on a mission to create the perfect fitting pants. While I admit I still haven’t cracked it, with this latest pattern draft I’m about as close to it as I think I can get. So I’m stamping it FINAL.

The pattern pieces look so misshapen compared to a regular pattern (eg, baby-got-back, who knew?), but the resulting fit speaks for itself. Most of drag lines are gone, and they are snug without being tight. The test is sitting - yes, I can, comfortably. I should add I’ve also converted the pattern from stretch fabrics to plain weave fabrics, as these are my preference.

For this final version, I’ve gone with a convention trouser style by moving the zip to the centre front with a fly, added side pockets, and created a shaped waistband with belt loops.

Made in another lite-weight wool fabric score from the Sallies for $3, it’s midnight blue with a self-stripe. Once again, they are lined to the knee.

Very, very happy with the results, and glad I persevered, even if its taken 5 years to get here!

New job, new shirt

New job jitters had me rummaging through the stash for something fresh to wear on my first day with Big Govt, which also meant an ID photo would be taken - ughh!

Gifted to me, I’ve been saving this lovely piece of cotton shirting for the right occasion, and now was it. It’s slightly off-white (so wouldn’t flare in the photo) with a subtle herringbone stripe weave.

For the pattern, I chose Butterick 9899 with the same adjustments I made here (lengthen the sleeve, adding a cuff, etc), but this time squared off the hem with a side seam vent at the hem. The mother-of-pearl shell buttons are also from the stash.

Nice understated shirt, for $0, plus the photo turned out pretty good, so pluses all around.

Lemon Squeezy - red linen blouse

The other piece of fabric which sprung to mind when thinking of new blouses was the remnant from this shirt.

Using the same self-made pattern as this white broderie anglaise blouse, I simply squared off the armholes and hem, then cut bias strips for both them and the neckline.

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!

Bees (Butterflies?) Broderie Blouse - Butterick 6275

Some of my blouses are getting a little shabby* and need swapping out over the coming months. Mulling over the fabrics and patterns in the stash, I imediately came up with a couple of suitable combinations for newer versions.

Butterick 6275 was bought new in the 1970's as a teenager (40 years ago - ekk!). I made version A in a blue cotton seersucker way back when. This time, I made version D, plus cut a pair of button-back tabs for the sleeves. Of course, the pattern is too small for me now, so a couple of extra centimetres were added in the sleeves and side seams. I actually made this version 5 years ago in a dark sage green cotton/silk, but the fabric was awful - everything left a stain (water, sweat, food, urgh!), so didn't blog about it then.

The white cotton broderie anglaise fabric was another Sallies score - $3 for 3 metres. It has bees (or stripey butterflies? not sure what they are suppose to be) embroidered on it, which initially I felt was a little childish, however from a distance they look like spots, so I'm not concerned about them now it's made up.

Love the finished blouse, even though it's a bit see-through, I have plenty of camisoles to wear underneath.

* I cherish my clothes and look after them carefully, so even if they're "a little shabby" (imo), they're still in good nick and will be donated. 

Look! I made a ... Muumuu?

One of those occasions where I started out making one thing, but ended up with something completely different.

When I saw the batik fabric in Spotlight, I originally envisioned another one of these - a basic kaftan shirt. However, mid-September was hot and muggy, so I changed my mind. Using the same pattern - New Look 6803 - View D, I cut out a basic tunic-y style dress, shortening the sleeves, shortened the front opening (as suggested the last time I blogged about this pattern), and even managed to squeeze out a couple of pockets. But because I hadn't bought quite enough fabric for the my new bright idea, I needed to add a back yoke to bring the length to the knees. I also turned the front facing to the inside for a cleaner look.

I wore the dress a couple times before October arrived (= cold, wet and windy), and it's heaven! Cool, loose and comfy. The fabric's still a bit stiff, but given a couple more washes and wears, it will be perfect. Roll on summer! 

Boredom Busting Purple Shirt - Butterick 6811

Scratching around in the stash for boredom-busting projects during lockdown, I came across the remnant fabric from this dress. About 1.5m but ony 90cm wide, I estimated a short sleeved shirt was achievable.

I used Butterick 6811 before as a base for this top. This time I started with view B, removed the front pleat, and cut the sleeves as long as the fabric would allow, intending to do turn-up hems.However, I later decided to add cuffs instead, as a bit more length balanced out the look of the shirt.

Actually very happy with the results, apart from the ugly make-do buttons, which have now been replaced, thanks to shops being open again.

Hurray! Think I've got comments working again - would love to hear from you all. How was/is lockdown for you?

Colour My Bubble Fuchsia Coat - Simplicity 8467

Got to say, loving working from home - the hours saved by not commuting - more hours for crafting!

I couldn't quite believe my luck when I spied this fabric in the Sallies last year. Pretty sure it's wool/cashmere, about 2.5 metres and the most beautiful vibrant fuchsia colour. Unfortunately, it looked like orange juice had been spilt on it, but at $6 for the piece, I took the chance it would wash out. Mostly it did, just a wee stripe of hard-to-see discolouration remains on the back (about shoulder level - know you're going to look!).

Luckly, I decided on a pattern and found matching thread and buttons just before lockdown. I liked the French darts on Simplicity 8467, but didn't have enough fabric for the front angled overlap, instead making a standard 3cm button overlap. However there was just enough fabric to 'grow' the neckline into a simple stand collar.

Such a simple coat, so snuggly and lovely to wear.

Colour your bubble.

Covid Coat - Butterick 3308

Now I'm into the swing of "Bubble" life, I've got my sewing mojo back, and have to say it's lovely making things at a leisurely pace.

Noticing houndstooth coats and jackets popping up on Pinterest and fashion sites, I knew I had a blue and black piece in the stash somewhere... another gift from my mother.

Wool acrylic, it's super soft, but because of it's loose weave was an absolute pain to cut and handle. Therefore, I chose a basic pattern - Butterick 3308, (another Sallies score for 20¢) and pretty much fused the whole thing to stabllise it. The two changes I made to the pattern were lengthening the jacket by 45cm to coat length and elimitating the button fly front. Later, I added a tie belt.

A little underwhelmed during the construction process, it wasn't until the sleeves went in that I fell in love with it.

Will have to wait a while to wear it though - maybe a return to work at Level 2? (I'm fortunately able to work from home at the moment).

Or, Formal Friday, anyone?

Hydrangea print blouse - Simplicity 7084

Another fabric found for a dollar in the local St Johns charity shop was this beautiful hydrangea print stretch cotton sateen. The piece was clearly a left-over scrap, almost a metre, with a bit extra on one side, and a bit less on the other where a sleeve had been cut out.

Initially, I thought the most logical garment to make would be a pleated skirt. However, I really couldn't imagine myself wearing it, so after a few weeks contemplation, I chose instead to make a blouse.

Using tried and trusted pattern Simplicity 7084, view B with view A's sleeves, there was just enough fabric. Super quick and easy to make as there are no fastenings, it simply pulls on over your head.

Its lovely to wear and has received many compliments.

UPDATE

With everthing going on at the beginning of lockdown, I found it difficult to concentrate on any project for too long. So, I found this tutorial and made a few masks with fabrics at hand.

Pink pom-pom beach poncho from a blanket *tutorial*

Orginally a $5 polarfleece baby blanket complete with pom-poms from Countdown supermarket.

The only pattern piece I used was for the hood. Any hood pattern piece will do - in this case Butterick 6101, as it was still out on from the teal hoodie. Pockets were drawn straight onto the fabric by tracing around my hand.

I've illustrated a chart to help explain the process.

1. Cut a strip off one side just wide enough for the hood and two pockets. TIP: cut these with their openings on the finished edge to save time hemming.
2. Hem the main piece along the cut edge, then fold into quarters. Cut a quarter-circle hole out of the folded corner for the neckline. The finished circumference size needs to be the same size as the lower hood neck seam length.
3. Sew all pieces together using a zigzag stitch. You may need to stretch the neck edge a little when attaching the hood to make it large enough to pull over your head.

It's not my best work, but it took less than an hour to make, and is a perfectly functional poncho for the beach.

Teal/green hoodie - Butterick 6101

Another piece of fabric give to me when my mother when she retired her stash was this lovely teal/green merino wool, also from Manawatu Knitting Mills.

Using the same pattern as this, this and this - Butterick 6101 (ca.1980), with all the same adjustments, once again it has a self-lined the hood and body.

Striped T-Shirt dress - vintage '80's Vogue 7338

One of the easiest garment I've made in years.

The striped cotton rugby knit fabric was made at Manawatu Knitting Mills in the 1980's; the pattern from around the same era picked up last year in St Vinnies. My mother gave me this fabric plus two other pieces in different colourways when she retired her stash. I'm tempted to make them all up the same.

Using View C, pin the pockets to the front and back pattern pieces to cut all-in-one, and lengthen the hem and the sleeves as much as the fabric will allow. Instead of using the patterns facings, cut a strip about 4cm wide by 60cm long to use as a neck binding. During construction, ignore the shoulder pleats.

If I do use this pattern again, next time I'll move the pockets up a couple of centimetres. Without a belt or tie they're just a fraction too low.

So basic, yet so comfortable.

Take 4 - the pants edition

Pinstriped pants and matching cat!

During a de-stash last year, (which saw me sell 4 boxes of fabric no longer "sparking joy" at Fabric-a-Brac) I came across three trouser length pieces of lightweight wool - one black, one navy, and one brown with blue pinstripe, each $3 at the Sallies some years earlier, and 5 metres of $5 per metre "fire-damaged" grey wool/cashmere from Pete's Emporium.  (A good wash and line-dry in the wind shortly after purchase got rid of a faint damp/smoky odour).

Desperately needing to replace my black work pants after 6 years of wear, I grabbed my favourite self-made trouser pattern, and promptly cut all four fabrics, plus lining to the knee for each. 

Then they languished for months, until my sewing bee a few weeks ago.

Since returning to work this year, they've all been worn at least once, and will be fabulous when the seasons turn towards the cooler months again.

Each a welcome addition to my wardrobe.

3-tiered maxi dress - New Look 6936

Happy New Year, dear readers!

It's been so windy in Wellington these last few months, I'm reluctant to venture out more than necessary - atmospheric pollen invokes uncontrollable sneezing! Never mind, all this indoor time has given me a chance to make a dent in the stash.

First up this year, is a dress made to wear to Christmas festivities. Technically not stashed fabric, as it was bought early in December. $1 for 4 metres of a lovely cotton lawn from the local St Johns charity shop - couldn't say "No!"

As New Look 6936 is for stretch fabrics (and of course lawn doesn't stretch at all) I cut to the largest size. I'm not fond of overlapped fronts so using view C as a starting point, I placed the centre front line on the fabric fold, creating a v-neck instead.

To make the tiered skirt, I shortened the skirt pattern pieces to 27cm below the waist, cut two middle tier pieces 36cm height × 92cm width, and two lower tier pieces 47cm height × 140cm width, which was two widths of the fabric.

Small brass bells, originally from an Indian bracelet, were added to the tie ends as a finishing touch.

The dress was a breeze to make, and even with the tiers, didn't take much longer than 2 hours. It's lovely to wear too - definitely a winner.

Blue Wool Pintucked Dress - Simplicity 8165

Earlier this year, I made a summery, short sleeved dress in linen and Simplicity 8165. Much loved, upon completion I decided to make a winter edition.

The blue wool crepe is from the stash, another score from Fabric-a-Brac. Following my notes from the first use of this pattern, I cut a size 6(!!) long sleeved version. I elongated the cuffs after seeing this picture of the Duchess of Cambridge, but I wouldn't recommend copying this look - it takes a bit of gymnastics to get all the buttons done up each time. Mostly, I roll the sleeves because I don't have time/can't be bothered.

I'm a bit meh about the dress -  it always feels a bit "Little House on the Prairie" nightgown-ish. But it's comfortable and I wear it often anyway.

Vintage 60's Butterick 3012 and the blue wool jacket

While spring cleaning my computer, I found a file of old garment photos which hadn't been posted about for one reason or other.

I planned to do a re-shoot of this blue wool blend jacket because the original images weren't particularly flattering. However, a year down the track, said jacket has been thoroughly worn, so I'm posting just the best image.

Made in wool blend fabric unused from another project, it's really a trial of vintage 1960's pattern Butterick 3012, which was gifted to me. In hindsight, I should have graded it down a couple of sizes as I knew it was too big. I didn't, and as a result I've lost the funnel-neck collar because it needed taking in so much. It's now a regular collarless jacket with funky raglan seams.

Oh well, that's why you trial.

I wear it anyway, it's a great colour, warm and the Pucci-inspired lining always brightens my day (left-over from a pre-blog coat).

Silk chiffon tunic for summer - New Look 6803

Not usually a fan of chiffon, $6 for 2+ metres of green and black silk seemed like a bargain at Fabric-a-Brac. Belatedly, I discovered why - there was a white mis-print stripe right down in the middle, more than 20cm long. Had to be crafty cutting around it.

After stiffening the silk with gelatin, making it much easier to handle, I cut New Look 6803 view D, plus some button-back tabs to hold the sleeves when rolled up (although now the gelatin has washed out, they don't stay rolled for long).

Definitely another success, however, if I use this pattern again I'll shorten the centre front opening by about 12cm - not because it was indecent, but because the big open edges flap about in my peripheral vision like a moth! Adding a dickie (or modesty panel) closed the gap this time, putting an end to swatting at 'moths' under my chin.

Graphania plena (Green Carpet Owlet) image from here - http://www.terrain.net.nz/friends-of-te-henui-group/moths.html

Blue Linen Pintucked Dress - Simplicity 8165

Hands-down my favourite make so far this year has to be this blue linen pintucked dress.

Inspired by a dress I tried on last spring (a weird fit, gapping armholes, and too short for my liking), from then on I had a hankering for a pintucked dress. Boy, I hunted high and low for the perfect pattern, all the fabric shops and opshops, but nothing was quite right. Finally, on the soon-to-be-extinct patterns table at Morelands Fabrics, I found Simplicity 8165.

Because I intended to use linen already in 'the stash', a few adjustments to the pattern were necessary to accommodate the fabric meterage. The hem and sleeve lengths were both shortened, and I eliminated the centre front seam (and binding), instead cutting a facing.

This pattern sizing runs LARGE. After the first fitting, I cut 10cm (4 inches) off each side seam, which was a shame, because I also felt I need to add a 8cm false hem. Had I known I could have cut 2 sizes smaller, which would have allowed the patterns pieces to overlap in the lay a little more, giving me the extra length.

Never mind, I still love the results, and have worn it often this past summer.

At present I'm considering making a long-sleeved winter version, and will 'shop the stash' this coming Easter break to hopefully find suitable fabric.

Green wool shirt - Butterick 9899

One blouse I do love is this one. Made from a left-over piece of lightweight wool from the stash (last used for this) dyed solid green.

Butterick 9899 was a gift from a friend who - like me - loves opshopping, and knows my passion for 'rescuing' old patterns. (Heard a story of them being used instead of newspaper to wrap breakables - the horror!) Using just the body and sleeve A pattern pieces, I lenghtened the front and back 20cm, curving up to the side seams, and extended the sleeve by 12cm plus cut a cuff 3cm finished width.

Shell buttons from Pete's Emporium.

Watercolour Blouse - New Look 6754

Also known as the "Dollar Top" as the fabric was $1 from the SPCA OpShop in Lower Hutt - approximately 2 metres length, cut down to about 70-80cm in width.

Originally, I made it up using another pattern, but after the first fitting re-cut it as it just wasn't me. New Look 6754 is a simple, tried-and trusted blouse pattern I've used many times before.

However, re-cutting caused issues with the length, so I added a 5cm band at the hem, curved it up at the side seams to make it interesting and less like an afterthought.

The blouse is a like, rather than a love, but it often catches my eye on indecisive days. It's so versatile - great with jeans or this or these or ...