P3 – Pants Pattern Perfection

P3 pants – self drafted pattern

Way back in 2017, I was on a mission to create the perfect fitting pants. While I admit I still haven’t cracked it, with this latest pattern draft I’m about as close to it as I think I can get. So I’m stamping it FINAL.

The pattern pieces look so misshapen compared to a regular pattern (eg, baby-got-back, who knew?), but the resulting fit speaks for itself. Most of drag lines are gone, and they are snug without being tight. The test is sitting - yes, I can, comfortably. I should add I’ve also converted the pattern from stretch fabrics to plain weave fabrics, as these are my preference.

For this final version, I’ve gone with a convention trouser style by moving the zip to the centre front with a fly, added side pockets, and created a shaped waistband with belt loops.

Made in another lite-weight wool fabric score from the Sallies for $3, it’s midnight blue with a self-stripe. Once again, they are lined to the knee.

Very, very happy with the results, and glad I persevered, even if its taken 5 years to get here!

New job, new shirt

New job jitters had me rummaging through the stash for something fresh to wear on my first day with Big Govt, which also meant an ID photo would be taken - ughh!

Gifted to me, I’ve been saving this lovely piece of cotton shirting for the right occasion, and now was it. It’s slightly off-white (so wouldn’t flare in the photo) with a subtle herringbone stripe weave.

For the pattern, I chose Butterick 9899 with the same adjustments I made here (lengthen the sleeve, adding a cuff, etc), but this time squared off the hem with a side seam vent at the hem. The mother-of-pearl shell buttons are also from the stash.

Nice understated shirt, for $0, plus the photo turned out pretty good, so pluses all around.

Lockdown berets

Crafting during the recent lockdown. Using up left over bits and pieces.

Free beret pattern on ravelry.

Lemon Squeezy - red linen blouse

The other piece of fabric which sprung to mind when thinking of new blouses was the remnant from this shirt.

Using the same self-made pattern as this white broderie anglaise blouse, I simply squared off the armholes and hem, then cut bias strips for both them and the neckline.

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!

Bees (Butterflies?) Broderie Blouse - Butterick 6275

Some of my blouses are getting a little shabby* and need swapping out over the coming months. Mulling over the fabrics and patterns in the stash, I imediately came up with a couple of suitable combinations for newer versions.

Butterick 6275 was bought new in the 1970's as a teenager (40 years ago - ekk!). I made version A in a blue cotton seersucker way back when. This time, I made version D, plus cut a pair of button-back tabs for the sleeves. Of course, the pattern is too small for me now, so a couple of extra centimetres were added in the sleeves and side seams. I actually made this version 5 years ago in a dark sage green cotton/silk, but the fabric was awful - everything left a stain (water, sweat, food, urgh!), so didn't blog about it then.

The white cotton broderie anglaise fabric was another Sallies score - $3 for 3 metres. It has bees (or stripey butterflies? not sure what they are suppose to be) embroidered on it, which initially I felt was a little childish, however from a distance they look like spots, so I'm not concerned about them now it's made up.

Love the finished blouse, even though it's a bit see-through, I have plenty of camisoles to wear underneath.

* I cherish my clothes and look after them carefully, so even if they're "a little shabby" (imo), they're still in good nick and will be donated. 

Boredom Busting Purple Shirt - Butterick 6811

Scratching around in the stash for boredom-busting projects during lockdown, I came across the remnant fabric from this dress. About 1.5m but ony 90cm wide, I estimated a short sleeved shirt was achievable.

I used Butterick 6811 before as a base for this top. This time I started with view B, removed the front pleat, and cut the sleeves as long as the fabric would allow, intending to do turn-up hems.However, I later decided to add cuffs instead, as a bit more length balanced out the look of the shirt.

Actually very happy with the results, apart from the ugly make-do buttons, which have now been replaced, thanks to shops being open again.

Hurray! Think I've got comments working again - would love to hear from you all. How was/is lockdown for you?

The Nirvana Sweater

If there was one thing I was determined to finish during lockdown, it was this sweater for SunnyJim.

It's been knocking around since last year, picked up and abandoned several times in favour of "newer, shiny things". To be honest, I disliked working with the yarn (from Spotlight), even though it's a lovely colour and 100% wool, it was heavy, and not particlarly soft to handle.

I made the pattern up as I went along, and decided on the basket weave front to stop me dying of boredom while knitting. So much knitting!

However, once I handed it over, he loved it immediately and nicknamed it his "Kurt Cobain sweater" (even pulled out his guitar and had a noodle). He puts it on almost every evening shortly after walking in the door, these nights have been so chilly.

Must admit, it's not my best work, but it's DONE.

Covid Coat - Butterick 3308

Now I'm into the swing of "Bubble" life, I've got my sewing mojo back, and have to say it's lovely making things at a leisurely pace.

Noticing houndstooth coats and jackets popping up on Pinterest and fashion sites, I knew I had a blue and black piece in the stash somewhere... another gift from my mother.

Wool acrylic, it's super soft, but because of it's loose weave was an absolute pain to cut and handle. Therefore, I chose a basic pattern - Butterick 3308, (another Sallies score for 20¢) and pretty much fused the whole thing to stabllise it. The two changes I made to the pattern were lengthening the jacket by 45cm to coat length and elimitating the button fly front. Later, I added a tie belt.

A little underwhelmed during the construction process, it wasn't until the sleeves went in that I fell in love with it.

Will have to wait a while to wear it though - maybe a return to work at Level 2? (I'm fortunately able to work from home at the moment).

Or, Formal Friday, anyone?

Teal blue wool bouclé "Melba" cropped jacket

Started in 2013, this self-drafted jacket, called the "Melba" (because it's based on my memory of a wildly expensive jacket seen in Melbourne) was made up to the point of deciding whether to make Spanish Snap buttonholes, or machine keyhole buttonholes. After languished for seven years, I'm over it and just want it gone. Machine buttonholes it is.

The fabric is a heavy wool bouclé originally from The Fabric Warehouse.

Maybe if I'd finished it in 2013 I'd wear it, but I really can't see myself in it now, so it will go to Ziggurat in a few months, when they are taking winter stock.

Teal/green hoodie - Butterick 6101

Another piece of fabric give to me when my mother when she retired her stash was this lovely teal/green merino wool, also from Manawatu Knitting Mills.

Using the same pattern as this, this and this - Butterick 6101 (ca.1980), with all the same adjustments, once again it has a self-lined the hood and body.

Striped T-Shirt dress - vintage '80's Vogue 7338

One of the easiest garment I've made in years.

The striped cotton rugby knit fabric was made at Manawatu Knitting Mills in the 1980's; the pattern from around the same era picked up last year in St Vinnies. My mother gave me this fabric plus two other pieces in different colourways when she retired her stash. I'm tempted to make them all up the same.

Using View C, pin the pockets to the front and back pattern pieces to cut all-in-one, and lengthen the hem and the sleeves as much as the fabric will allow. Instead of using the patterns facings, cut a strip about 4cm wide by 60cm long to use as a neck binding. During construction, ignore the shoulder pleats.

If I do use this pattern again, next time I'll move the pockets up a couple of centimetres. Without a belt or tie they're just a fraction too low.

So basic, yet so comfortable.

Take 4 - the pants edition

Pinstriped pants and matching cat!

During a de-stash last year, (which saw me sell 4 boxes of fabric no longer "sparking joy" at Fabric-a-Brac) I came across three trouser length pieces of lightweight wool - one black, one navy, and one brown with blue pinstripe, each $3 at the Sallies some years earlier, and 5 metres of $5 per metre "fire-damaged" grey wool/cashmere from Pete's Emporium.  (A good wash and line-dry in the wind shortly after purchase got rid of a faint damp/smoky odour).

Desperately needing to replace my black work pants after 6 years of wear, I grabbed my favourite self-made trouser pattern, and promptly cut all four fabrics, plus lining to the knee for each. 

Then they languished for months, until my sewing bee a few weeks ago.

Since returning to work this year, they've all been worn at least once, and will be fabulous when the seasons turn towards the cooler months again.

Each a welcome addition to my wardrobe.

3-tiered maxi dress - New Look 6936

Happy New Year, dear readers!

It's been so windy in Wellington these last few months, I'm reluctant to venture out more than necessary - atmospheric pollen invokes uncontrollable sneezing! Never mind, all this indoor time has given me a chance to make a dent in the stash.

First up this year, is a dress made to wear to Christmas festivities. Technically not stashed fabric, as it was bought early in December. $1 for 4 metres of a lovely cotton lawn from the local St Johns charity shop - couldn't say "No!"

As New Look 6936 is for stretch fabrics (and of course lawn doesn't stretch at all) I cut to the largest size. I'm not fond of overlapped fronts so using view C as a starting point, I placed the centre front line on the fabric fold, creating a v-neck instead.

To make the tiered skirt, I shortened the skirt pattern pieces to 27cm below the waist, cut two middle tier pieces 36cm height × 92cm width, and two lower tier pieces 47cm height × 140cm width, which was two widths of the fabric.

Small brass bells, originally from an Indian bracelet, were added to the tie ends as a finishing touch.

The dress was a breeze to make, and even with the tiers, didn't take much longer than 2 hours. It's lovely to wear too - definitely a winner.

Blue Wool Pintucked Dress - Simplicity 8165

Earlier this year, I made a summery, short sleeved dress in linen and Simplicity 8165. Much loved, upon completion I decided to make a winter edition.

The blue wool crepe is from the stash, another score from Fabric-a-Brac. Following my notes from the first use of this pattern, I cut a size 6(!!) long sleeved version. I elongated the cuffs after seeing this picture of the Duchess of Cambridge, but I wouldn't recommend copying this look - it takes a bit of gymnastics to get all the buttons done up each time. Mostly, I roll the sleeves because I don't have time/can't be bothered.

I'm a bit meh about the dress -  it always feels a bit "Little House on the Prairie" nightgown-ish. But it's comfortable and I wear it often anyway.

Vintage 60's Butterick 3012 and the blue wool jacket

While spring cleaning my computer, I found a file of old garment photos which hadn't been posted about for one reason or other.

I planned to do a re-shoot of this blue wool blend jacket because the original images weren't particularly flattering. However, a year down the track, said jacket has been thoroughly worn, so I'm posting just the best image.

Made in wool blend fabric unused from another project, it's really a trial of vintage 1960's pattern Butterick 3012, which was gifted to me. In hindsight, I should have graded it down a couple of sizes as I knew it was too big. I didn't, and as a result I've lost the funnel-neck collar because it needed taking in so much. It's now a regular collarless jacket with funky raglan seams.

Oh well, that's why you trial.

I wear it anyway, it's a great colour, warm and the Pucci-inspired lining always brightens my day (left-over from a pre-blog coat).

Blue Linen Pintucked Dress - Simplicity 8165

Hands-down my favourite make so far this year has to be this blue linen pintucked dress.

Inspired by a dress I tried on last spring (a weird fit, gapping armholes, and too short for my liking), from then on I had a hankering for a pintucked dress. Boy, I hunted high and low for the perfect pattern, all the fabric shops and opshops, but nothing was quite right. Finally, on the soon-to-be-extinct patterns table at Morelands Fabrics, I found Simplicity 8165.

Because I intended to use linen already in 'the stash', a few adjustments to the pattern were necessary to accommodate the fabric meterage. The hem and sleeve lengths were both shortened, and I eliminated the centre front seam (and binding), instead cutting a facing.

This pattern sizing runs LARGE. After the first fitting, I cut 10cm (4 inches) off each side seam, which was a shame, because I also felt I need to add a 8cm false hem. Had I known I could have cut 2 sizes smaller, which would have allowed the patterns pieces to overlap in the lay a little more, giving me the extra length.

Never mind, I still love the results, and have worn it often this past summer.

At present I'm considering making a long-sleeved winter version, and will 'shop the stash' this coming Easter break to hopefully find suitable fabric.

Green wool shirt - Butterick 9899

One blouse I do love is this one. Made from a left-over piece of lightweight wool from the stash (last used for this) dyed solid green.

Butterick 9899 was a gift from a friend who - like me - loves opshopping, and knows my passion for 'rescuing' old patterns. (Heard a story of them being used instead of newspaper to wrap breakables - the horror!) Using just the body and sleeve A pattern pieces, I lenghtened the front and back 20cm, curving up to the side seams, and extended the sleeve by 12cm plus cut a cuff 3cm finished width.

Shell buttons from Pete's Emporium.

Watercolour Blouse - New Look 6754

Also known as the "Dollar Top" as the fabric was $1 from the SPCA OpShop in Lower Hutt - approximately 2 metres length, cut down to about 70-80cm in width.

Originally, I made it up using another pattern, but after the first fitting re-cut it as it just wasn't me. New Look 6754 is a simple, tried-and trusted blouse pattern I've used many times before.

However, re-cutting caused issues with the length, so I added a 5cm band at the hem, curved it up at the side seams to make it interesting and less like an afterthought.

The blouse is a like, rather than a love, but it often catches my eye on indecisive days. It's so versatile - great with jeans or this or these or ...

Why not remake a favourite - Butterick 6101

If you love something, why not have two? Or three?

Since making the green hoodie, I've hardly taken it off. It's so cosy and comfortable to wear. In fact, it's embarassing how often I find myself in it, so it seemed a good idea to make another. Then SunnyJim started dropping broad hints about his only hoodie having holes in it...

The red merino was a lucky find in a Salvation Army store earlier this year - more than 2 metres for $3. However, I spied a few moth holes, so immediately washed it when home*, followed by line-drying in full sun. Once dry, it was placed in a ziplock bag in the freezer for a few days, just in case there were still any nasties about to hatch, then washed again.

SunnyJims maroon flecked merino has been languishing in the stash since being purchased through TradeMe several years ago.

I used the same pattern - Butterick 6101 (ca. 1980), with all the same adjustments. This time I self-lined the hood, plus the body (x2), as the left-overs were enough to cut another front and back, but not enough to make another garment, so these ones may as well be toasty!

Zips were easier to come by this time, as the red zip had been in the stash so long time I've no idea what it was originally purchased for, and the maroon zip I stubbled across rumaging through a $1 bin at Pete's Emporium, which put the hoodie idea in my head.

Once again, I created self-fabric cord for the hoods.

Happily, both hoodies are now in regular use.

*  using the wool setting on my machine (delicate cycle, warm water wash and rinse).
Apologies if you have been receiving the same post several times. I'm experiencing issues with blog posts. Bear with me, trying to sort it!

Kelly Green Merino Hoodie - Butterick 6101

A few years ago, I was tempted into buying a piece of merino sweatshirting I saw on TradeMe. It wasn't cheap - about $35 p/m from memory, and a minimum of 2 metres, but I was intrigued because I hadn't seen merino in this form before (nor since), plus it's my favourite colour. The idea was to make something warm for shavasana, as my yoga class can be chilly mid-winter. I pinned many ideas over the years, before settling on a classic hoodie.

At Moeraki boulders wearing Kelly Green Merino Hoodie (Butterick 6101)

An old, tried-and-trusted pattern - Butterick 6101 (ca. 1980) became the basic template, with a few tweaks. Pockets would be a must, plus I added cuffs and a hip band. The hood in the pattern is lined, but because the merino has a wonderful soft fleecy backing, I left it unlined, instead making a flat-felled seam down the centre back to keep it neat.

The hardest part was finding a zip and cord to match. I considered white, lime green, daffodil yellow, brass and chrome, before finally finding a dark green zip in The Fabric Warehouse - not perfect, but close enough. There doesn't seem to be any cord in Wellington that isn't black or white, so I created my own out of fabric.

Hands-down my favourite make in recent times.

(BTW, can anyone tell me what happened the lady's leg (with the tennis racket) on the pattern?!)