Sunday, September 29, 2013

Vogue 5782 meets Andy Warhol

Second choice for The Monthly Stitch September’s “Vintage Patterns” challenge is the truly vintage Vogue 5782
You may recall I’ve toiléd a variation of this pattern before. My intentions are to make it up in a very precious piece of vintage wool given to me by my favourite tutor a couple of decades ago, but felt I needed to toilé the whole dress properly first. 
The polished cotton fabric was bought in the August sale at The Fabric Warehouse - the same day I attended the fantastic Andy Warhol:Immortal exhibition at Te Papa. The random splashes of cyan and magenta on otherwise fairly monochromatic grey/olive reminds me of his work.
Two changes were made to the pattern. I moved the zip from centre back to sideseam as I find zips easier to do up at the side, and the neckline is wide enough to slip my head through. It does still need a zip - because - as per the pattern - the waist seam is gathered onto tape cut to my exact waist measurement, and - you know - boobs/bum > waist. The second change was to make the ties into a belt, instead of coming from the side seams. This way I can wear it with other belts.
Probably because of my rusty pattern grading skills I also need to look at my armhole scye, as it seems quite tight this time. The sleeve head has plenty of ease so it should be a fairly easy adjustment to cut the armhole a little larger. And I love this sleeve length! Plus, the pattern has pockets in the sideseams. (Yes, I did put the zip in behind the pocket).
I made a bit of a boo-boo last weekend and bought some more fabric. Never fear, it will become a frock in Froctober! It’s not technically “stashed” if it doesn’t make it into the “stash”, is it?

Monday, September 23, 2013

Burda 7253 and the SwirlyWhirly Sackdress

When The Monthly Stitch announced September’s challenge was “Vintage Patterns”, my first choice to make was Burda 7253 - a retro style sackdress. However, even thought the sackdress or ‘waistless chemise’’ - first presented by Cristóbal Balenciaga in his 1956 collection - would be classed as “vintage”, I’m not sure this Burda pattern is. Bought from Spotlight last year, nowhere on the pattern does it say it is a re-print from the ‘50-’60’s. It does have an extremely tapered hobble skirt just like the original sackdress style from the 60’s, which makes me think it is a re-print, rather than retro-styled.
Anyway, once I threw away the very confusing construction instructions, this frock was a dream to make. In fact, apart from the handstitching, it only took a few hours to make. The fabric is from "the stash" - a soft cotton/silk blend from The Fabric Warehouse, a little opaque so it’s french seamed and lined with cotton lawn (also from TFW). I shortened the pattern to just below the knee (instead of mid-calf). If (when) I make it again I’ll do away with the zip and centre back seam - it easily slips over my head with the zip closed so why go to the bother!
I’m looking forward to the weather warming up so it can be worn. Have a feeling it’s going to become a ‘comfy’ favourite like the twist-top dress from the summer before last.
Belt = Kinki Gerlinki, Melbourne.

Monday, September 2, 2013

Another round-to-it

Finally finished these pants last week.  Original cut and started last winter, I’m not sure why it’s took me so long - I’ve already worn them twice, so there was definitely a need for them in my wardrobe. Oh well.
Black wool suiting fabric from The Fabric Warehouse. Ankle boots from I Love ParisRed top here.